Unexpected Arctic Experiences: Cold Surprises and Harsh Realities
As an experienced Arctic explorer, my journeys to the region have never failed to surprise and challenge me. There have been many memorable moments, and some of the most unexpected and memorable ones occurred during my excursions in the 1980s. In this article, I will share some of these surprising experiences and the lessons learned from them.
Achieving Acclimation to Midnight Sun in Yellowknife
When I first moved to Yellowknife in 1985, I was a bit unprepared for the peculiarities of the arctic environment. The sun's unique behavior of not setting during summer months, known as the midnight sun, can be a difficult adjustment for those not used to it. The city of Yellowknife in the Northwest Territories, Canada, is a great example of how life thrives in the arctic climate. Despite the extreme conditions, it's a vibrant and bustling city that has adapted to the harsh realities of the Arctic.
My Last Night of Fieldwork in the Arctic
One of the most vivid memories I have from my final fieldwork day in 1997 is the experience of landing on the Thelon River during the so-called legal dark. The Thelon River is a major waterway in the Northwest Territories, and it was during the time when darkness officially ends for the day. However, the northern lights put on a spectacular show as a testament to the breathtaking beauty of the region. The display was not only visually stunning but also a reminder of the power and unpredictability of the Arctic environment.
First Winter Trip to the Arctic: Packed for 20 Below Zero
When I first went to Barrow, now known as Utquiagvik, on the North Slope, in 1985, I was initially prepared for a mild March trip, assuming the temperature would be around spring weather. However, a quick glance at the local temperature in Barrow revealed that it was actually 20 degrees below zero. This was a stark reminder of the unpredictability of the Arctic climate. I packed my warmest coat and added a fur hat, long johns, a down vest, and snow pants to ensure I was prepared for the extreme cold.
Life in Barrow in the 1980s: Cold and Sterile Indoors
The quilted and insulated interiors of older buildings in Barrow were unlike anything I had encountered before. The cold could even keep the air and surfaces almost sterile due to the freezing temperatures. Interestingly, some homes were kept quite cozy, allowing residents to comfortably strip down to a tee-shirt, jeans, and socks. However, in buildings less insulated, the environment was more of a challenge, with the need to keep your hat and boots on.
Clarity on Ice and Snow
Walking on the ice and snow along the shore set off eerie creaks, squeaks, and squeals. These sounds added to the unique and eerie ambiance of the area. It was a stark reminder of the environment's harshness and beauty.
Second Visit to Barrow: Polar Bear Warnings
Years later, I visited Barrow again for a project and decided to save money by walking to and from work. However, a coworker warned me about the danger of polar bears that had been spotted on the outskirts of town. Contrary to other types of bears, polar bears do not shy away from humans and can pose a significant threat. This experience reinforced the importance of being cautious and aware of one's surroundings in such an unforgiving environment.
Returning to Anchorage: Relishing Warm Temperatures
Returning to Anchorage after a trip to Barrow, where it was minus 20 degrees, felt like a warm respite. The contrast was stark, and I felt liberated from the need to bundle up. On my travels, I was accustomed to wearing a hat, gloves, and a jacket, but in Anchorage, I could enjoy the balmy weather with just a tee-shirt, jeans, and socks.